It felt so good to be back! After three! (I thought it was only two) years of missing New Orleans because of my work schedule, we were able to return this June. There had been months of heavy rains, tornado warnings so we were curious as to what we might be stepping into. Just the morning of our arrival, the city had received enough rain that parts of town were flooded (mild in comparison to historic events). We lucked into a week without rain and although hot, not as hot as it would be the weekend we left. I would have preferred at least one downpour for how it makes the air cleaner, cooler and for the silliness that occurs when the sky opens up as it does in New Orleans. It's not unlike buckets of water falling on you nonstop for 15 minutes. Weeeeee!
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| our room as you enter |
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| nice pool. warm and good to sit by in the evening hours |
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| At Cafe Reconcile |
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| where we stayed on Royal for a month in 2007 |
Airplane rides (American) and only one of 'em had individual TV's and that had crappy choices. Renting a car (Dollar) at an easier to navigate location at the airport, we headed in to town but because of a delay in our flight we missed the end of the Oyster festival (peeps were packing up) and also Marcia Ball's set. Bummer. Had an easy dinner at Magnolia Grill in the Rainbow part of the Quarter where the employees are always friendly/sarcastic/silly. Anytime I can get 2 of the 3 qualities, I'm pretty happy.
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| in mid city. since Nola is below sea level, burials are above ground |
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| we liked that one of the musicians was wearing a Stephan Curry jersey |
Of course New Orleans has a special relationship with it's musical history with many of the artists still residing in town due to some of following reasons: legend artists recorded their hits in the days that producers or record companies stole their royalties leaving them with minimal bank, the artists like living in New Orleans and there are families here of generational musicians. Another benefit of this condition is that you can find a higher quality/density of artists in this city than you can in most of the US except possibly New York. But in New York, many of the musicians are just stopping by, so while its limiting to be "stuck" in New Orleans for many of the artists, it makes a better visit for the music fan- and at $5-$15 to see great musicians, a not expensive way to enjoy a night out. Additionally New Orleans has been able to maintain a distinct sound. San Francisco often is touted in the media as having a San Francisco sound but it really does not have anything close to the roots and distinction that Nola has.
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| Brother Tyrone and the Mind Benders, DBA |
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| Treme Brass Band, DBA |
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| Washboard Rodeo- Three Muses |
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| George Porter at Lafayette Square |
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| Walter Wolfman Washington, DBA |
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| Geno Delofose, f/t farmer and a heck of a p/t musician |
Running through a roll call of who we saw this time around; Brother Tyrone and The Mind Benders (soul in the raspy Sam Cooke, Otis Clay mode-powerful vocals), Washboard Rodeo with Washboard Chaz (with fiddles and a rhythm section, although the piano player had to leave 2/3rd's in likely for a gig across the street at the Spotted Cat), Treme Brass Band (having a lot of fun in their set with a guest sitting in), Walter Wolfman Washington (one of my favorites),
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| 2 guys 40 and 50 at the Blue Nile |
Geno Delofose, Jr. (Zydeco at Rock 'n Bowl, where many people brought their washboards), Big Sam and The Funky Nation (Sam has a great time!), George Porter (of the Meters). Plus many brass bands, and musicians playing on the street and most were very good.
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| Oliver is (finally) ready to eat beignets again. He' avoided since 2007 when he was sick due to the climate change but always blamed the beignets |
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| appropriate beignet cafe flooring |
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| for people that are locked out, they've got a good attitude |
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| Mardi Gras World, Visitor |
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| large warehouse storage for parade floats |
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| Dexter appreciated the fresh perspective seeing the building and craft and how it relates to what he is studying |
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| Ollie is a pretty good mimic, or just a goofball |
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| it's a talent...or something |
Cafe Reconcile has redesigned their dining room to a much cleaner design, more comfortable and on the Wednesday afternoon we visited, near capacity. Last time we ate there (it's a place that provides job training for at- risk youths to help transition them into the restaurant culture of the city) the layout was a bit drab but the reconstruct was already underway. The setting is now real nice, food okay but the purpose makes dining here a worthwhile stop and the young folks are trying real hard.
Especially after being away for three years, it's difficult not wanting to visit all of our favorite places again and again- to those we did, we did joyfully. Also when it's hot and humid, the boys are happiest in the pool so that desire is always to be balanced and respected. Our room which was a large box; large in terms of the length and had high ceilings-15 feet, antiquated furniture and look but a tiny bathroom, and as we were all in one room, not much privacy. For next time- we liked Lamothe House, its location on the quieter Esplanade Street and nice pool, with access to a front and back departure. For next time we checked out the possibilities for the larger rooms- 2 bedroom type of accommodations. Well, it's always fun watching everyone else sleep. I was always the last one up and almost always first awake and out to hunt and gather breakfast.
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| Nectar Sno-Bliz at Hansens |
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| If over heated, genuinely happy to have these in hand |
So where did we go that we've always gone? Rotating Hansen's Sno-Bliz with Cafe du Monde's beignets, where our first night in line for coffee, a palmetto jumped on a big man's shoulder, and it upset him so much that he told everyone around him as if Dracula had popped out of the skies. The Pearl River/Honey Island Swamps are a must do for us. Even if there were not sightings of alligators, birds, and now wild boar but only the waterways, lush greens and sweet breeze of Cajun air conditioning (fast boat) this would still be an enjoyable experience. Plus we had Charlie again as our guide. I liked when he saw a can floating in the water, he cut the engine and practically flopped over to grab the can. Mardi Gras World with Dexter's new perspective on this type of work, where floats and sets are built in giant warehouses along the water. Elizabeth's for breakfast in the Bywater, Louisiana Music Factory at its' newer and better location on Frenchman Street with its neighbor, Offbeat magazine. Maria and I stopped into Molly's At The Market for a friendly beverage. Fair Grinds Coffee House in Esplanade Ridge, Rock 'n Bowl in Mid-City, kind enough to show game 1 of the Warriors finals over our lane, and Napoleon House were all favorite places revisited.
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| Dexter, Look Out!! |
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| look before you leap |
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| Honey Island Swamp, Slidell, LA |
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| hands in the boat is probably a good rule |
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| boars are invasive to the swamp |
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at finer restaurants gators usually eat standing on 2 feet
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Some different things we were able to do was to go to a Farmers Market and load up on blueberries and some other nice foods. While the markets aren't up to par with West Coast offerings, it is good to see a movement in New Orleans toward some healthier and local food options. We still notice a lack of a good recycling program- Winnipeg of my recent travels is one up on you Nola. We also visited the Backstreet Cultural Museum in Treme. Here's a fun video (2 minutes) of the owner Sylvester. He seems a little short of breath presently so we were greeted by Sylvester and hosted by his brother (who likes baseball). These folks are a hoot! The museum is just a short walk past Rampart Street. Rampart has changed much where it now has some boutiques on a street that once was run down. The feeling locally might be that some neighborhood places may be being pushed out.
Backstreet Cultural Museum
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| the details on all the beading and sewing- all done by hand is more impressive the closer viewed |
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| farmers market |
Also for me, I rented a bike (a mere $6) and although the thought of riding in New Orleans seemed questionable (traffic and big potholes in the streets), riding around on my cruiser was fun, real fun. I was honored that a local called out to me, "man, you're brave. riding the wrong way up Rampart Street" (also code for -
you're an idiot). I also found out that I've been wearing my bike helmet backwards for three months. Really? The stuff you learn!
We also spent Friday afternoon at City Park where there is a little amusement park. Ollie and I had fun on the roller coaster and because it wasn't crowded the guys let us go around again. Maria, O, and I took on another ride- a spinning turbo thing which because we were discussing who would go, the ticket collector got a little peeved waiting for our tickets. Unfortunately she was also the ride operator and we were the only ones riding. I think we were punished with intent, although riding on the inside it was fun for Oliver as their combined weight+gravity pushed out I don't know what out of my pores. It's the last time I go on one of those.
Frenchmen Street at night has become quite the place to go to. While the quality of music clubs is still top notch, the crowds- and such numbers of people reminds of the Polk Street area on Friday and Saturday nights. It's definitely the place to go to for the under 30 set (and one 54, I guess) but for the neighbors, I got to wonder how they feel- as it's so noisy. Nothing like finding drink cups -or worse on your front stoop. Still pleasantly quiet in the morning and early afternoon. Despite the changes, still a neighborhood.
Miniature Golf came back to City Park in 2014 with two courses; a New Orleans and Louisiana themes. Nicely laid out but on the small side lacking bells and whistles but subtle tricks in the landscaping of the greens where the balls rarely roll in a straight path. Affordable too which is a nice consideration for the families of the city. I had a slow start but unlike my bowling game, finished very well although the family mocked me for my helpful tips.
I think i missed something in college. I never played beer pong. On this machine anyway I did well (although couldn't type my initials very well- that's me as "BBC" 10 cups, 13 tries. The ones after me took 60 + attempts whoever they are. Beer pong and Nerf basketball- if only.
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| Ollie has always enjoyed roller coasters |
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| this is mugging |
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| a happy Harrison Barnes |
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rock and bowl. And over our lane was the first (whew-happy results) game of the Golden State-Cleveland series. Cleveland has never won a basketball championship and the Warriors last did in 1975. |
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| a boy with his $1 whale named "Dorca" so Dorky & Dorca |
Perspective: one night at a show- most of these I went to on my own-New Orleans has been limiting the night club shows to 21 and over (Three Muses which has a good vegetarian menu is a dinner house so youngsters are welcome there), I was aware of a man who I thought, "look at that short guy". Later I found myself standing next to him. He was the same height as me. Oh well, I never think of myself as short.
We rented a red car which was easier to find, and a nice ride. We did get towed one morning. It wasn't a big deal except for the part where the truck driver had me huff and puff for 2 blocks where we "could talk" but used this as a funny little joke driving away. It was fairly easy to retrieve the vehicle and the cost was about half of what it would cost in San Francisco.
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| you don't know this but tomorrow you will meet a tow truck |
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| our lousy version of Abbey Road (or "filler photo") |
Just good to gather together, to experience together, and in the most relaxing moments in a pool, on a boat, or with beignets and au laits or cups of wonderful Sno-Bliz made this trip a nice cozy blanket.
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| thanks for reading ! |
