What I Did For Summer Vacation

To sum up my summer vacation, or at least those days off that constituted a vacation: 2 great weddings, and back to New Orleans. One way or another, I am always finding my way back to New Orleans. This time we were honored to have our friends ask us to be their tour guide for their first visit. Sure, when can we go?!! Navigating a duration of stay was trickier than determining time of year but with teachers in the group left us to choose from June-August. In August you start to come up on hurricane (or Failed Levee) season, and it's really too humid in the summer- off season, June is pushing it but not usually as unbearable as July and August. Pictures of some very overheated tourists.

Of course traveling with great friends there is an implicit level of trust and faith that you will not be bringing them to the inferno-anywhere but that was definitely a concern. This is after all a great city, a very urban place, a land of unpredictable charm and madness. If you go into it, I can't tell you what you may experience but you will experience something that is lasting and unique to where you have been. Many people head to the drunken noise pounding clubs of the upper French Quarter where a prefabbed wild time can be had by all- but this an always be mapped out before it even happens. Predictable. What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas because, who cares?

Now before anyone says "who cares about this", immediately turn to pictures of big alligators eating hot dogs and marshmallows. Marshmallows because they are white and easy for predators to find (hence, not many big white animals living to old ages outside of zoos). The Honey Island Swamp is a protected area. Most of the 2 hour ride is sheer beauty, sometimes jetting across the water for miles at high speeds -hold onto your hats, kids. Learning about the wildlife, plants, and people who live nearby builds to both a rip into the oil companies and a pitch to take care of these waters. Our guide, Captain Charlie had to speak over the loudmouths who were screaming to back up so they could take more photos of some gators.

There are indeed some big fellows here protecting their territory. The largest who I missed visiting with this time is El Whoppo, some 15 feet and 60 years old. We did see Big Al (photos), about 11-12 feet long and while not the girth of El Whoppo, impressive nevertheless. Everyone is cautioned to please keep your arms in the boat. It's a Disney ride when an alligator glides under the surface of the water, scutes (plates on its back) showing and an eye in view, all on a conveyor belt of swamp to you...and then your realization is that this is a dinosaur, with big teeth and big pathogens (not to mention gnarly breath for anyone getting that close).


Some gators can assume the guise of children but the teeth are always the secret, so beware, squares. Like hot dogs? Yes. Like marshmallows? Yes. In fact this one in green was the only child who did not toss his marshmallow into the waters; too good to waste thought he, and ate it himself when others were preoccupied. Yum.

Uh, that's pretty close. The temptation is to take photos over the boat which naturally makes your guide a bit nervous. Then you witness the big fellows jumping eight feet out of the water and you understand why. Look big, not stupid.















After Katrina (or when the levees failed) we went about a year later, then the following year for a month in December. In 2006 we could not locate the Lower 9th on our map. We found that the AAA does not place some locations on their maps, in some cities. The breakdown of the levee system did the most immediate damage in the Lower 9 as the waters poured in a sudden crush submerging homeowners in minutes. In other parts of the city, Midcity (Esplanade Ridge is an area we love) and Lakeview (middle class and nicer residences not spared) were also flooded terribly -just not as sudden.

It was distressing 2 years later to go to the L9 and see all the devastation still there; destroyed homes crushed, battered but not yet razed. Blocks of moldy wood piles and broken glass. An occasional individual pounding for his life but no government presence. We saw a Habitat for Humanity sign and not far from there, the Pink Houses. The Pink House Project is a volunteer organization with the goal to create houses in this forgotten zone. Draped in neon pink to attract media attention, these houses would be built to withstand another flooding but also use technology to harness solar and other natural power. In '07/08 when we visited there were no houses, only frames. Since then 50 houses have been built by the Make it Right Foundation. Community support by Common Ground Relief, a grassroots organization that the Bush administration chose to infiltrate (found no terrorist activity). The houses while a bit fancy, are in our mind, terrific.
New Orleans is a big grand city that has no substantial technological economic base- Google has branches in most of the United States big cities but nothing in New Orleans. Perhaps symbolic; large city portraits adorn the floors of one of the Google offices and during a relocation, all the portraits were brought up to the upper floors except one- New Orleans. She is the sister good for the party but for business or serious matters, not so much.
The South has big versions of bugs; grabbing this moth, we had a bit of fun with him before setting him back on his way.

In New Orleans, your life might be featured in a book, your home might be destroyed but somehow someway you come back home. Ronald Lewis is the primary character of Nine Lives. Formerly a union man bridging racial lines across the streetcar tracks, he is now a historian of the Lower 9th, and curator of the Indian Tribes of New Orleans. He recognizes change alters what was, and what is to be. It was wonderful meeting with him, and feeling the pulse of international community.

We were waiting for the heavy tropical rains where the sky opens up and you are soaked within five seconds; Here it comes-get outta of the way- too late!!. It had been abnormally hot for June but as long as the kids could swim twice, or more each day, they were content. Traveling in a group is a bit tricky as everyone's start times vary, we seemingly take turns in not feeling well, and it is difficult in keeping a core group of nine, plus two reasonably happy. I think once I came around to accepting everyone's experience as their own, as opposed to what I hoped it might be, I was good. New Orleans is not a controlled environment.

Having traveled with Hale and Colleen and their lovely children on other occasions- shorter trips, closer to home, I still look forward to future explorations and shared experiences. They are easy to laugh with and always close friends.

Music: You can walk out on Frenchmen Street and witness brass bands competing against each other on opposite street corners, with the Police on horseback tolerating or disrupting these sessions. Only in New Orleans are teenagers walking about with tubas, violins, and trombones.
Clubs have such a low cover fee surely making it difficult to have any substantial income as a musician but for those going to the Blue Nile, Spotted Cat, DBA, Balcony Club and others, you can't find a better deal. There's always something going on and New Orleans still has its own sound; brassy funk, clave rhythms. Also for Maria and I, stumbling upon a meeting with the great great Irma Thomas was a year's highlight. It's fun to see Maria tongue tied in admiration.

Food: Despite the sadness surrounding the fire at what once was Verti Marte, we had no difficulty in finding palette satisfaction. A highlight, although we felt under dressed, was finally going to the legendary Dookie Chase restaurant. There are pictures of a very happy President Obama anticipating a big meal, and he hugging Leah Chase. We were made to feel extremely welcome and man, that was a fine day.




shelter from big time rain. Note Olivers soppy head. Pool side, big band- 2 guests from
Houston

Oliver found $20 in the street. Dexter listened intently to what Mr.Lewis had to share. I found great red beans and rice just down the street. Maria did some volunteer work with Colleen and Angie. Hale experienced a city blatant in its reality , unlike anywhere else. Something old, something new. A new mayor, a new hope. Singular, sad but inspiring, soulful but mournful, wounded but alive.

Now let me tell you where you got your shoes...